egg|principia|egg changed the topic of #kspmodders to: Welcome to #kspmooders | <Majiir> egg is pretty much just a chickenfetus until you start talking about floating point | <SilverFox> "little" doesn't seem like a real word to me right now
<Greys>
Randy Johnson should take magic lessons and learn how to throw a baseball but then it's a dove
<G-Mobile>
Those people represent an apathetic minority
<G-Mobile>
so just do it, and dont tell them
<TheKosmonaut>
Glass|phone: well those people bought the game on the store
<TheKosmonaut>
As the cut off predates when KSP went to steam
<TheKosmonaut>
So the likely scenario is that if you transferred your game to steam at that period, you'll get the DLC for free but maybe download it from the store.
<Glass|phone>
those people include me
<G-Mobile>
And me
<Glass|phone>
and I transferred as well so I do expect things to go wrong
<G-Mobile>
I bet a significant portion of that set of people were youtubers
<Greys>
the ones who are still youtubers or have turned into streamers will probably be happy to recieve a free license for the DLC, that Squad would have considered giving them anyway
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<Glass|phone>
Greys: are you trying to say that a significant portion of the original community are youtubers?
<Glass|phone>
why the fuck are dcc decoders so expensive
<Greys>
tarantulas, the dogs of spiders
<Greys>
Glass|phone because ksp came out on the heels of minecraft's success, youtubers were all over everything that could be the next minecraft
<Glass|phone>
99.7% of people who bought the game in that time will not have made a yt video of it
<Greys>
99.9999% of youtubers are total failures
<Glass|phone>
your mother is a failure
<Greys>
once my mom was building a house and fell from the third floor to the second floor when neither had a floor yet, broke three ribs, finished the day, went home, came back the next day, and her boss had to send her home when he found out
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<Greys>
once my mom, my sister, and me were in the car when another car T-boned us, sending us spinning away where the car flipped and landed upside down in a ditch; so my mom extracted herself, then crawled back in, on broken glass, to get me and the sis out
<Glass|phone>
okay that does not necessarily imply failure
<Glass|phone>
my mom raised three children, two of us fled to the other end of the world after high school
<Glass|phone>
my brother is stillcin high school
<Greys>
are you calling your mom a failure?
<Glass|phone>
no
<Glass|phone>
but it's funny if you word it like that
<Greys>
the male human who used to be my father is a failure
<Greys>
that face when you click on a project wonderful ad that takes you to a comic with a project wonderful ad for itself; and a blog post from october explaining that they had abandoned the comic in january because it was making them sad
<Glass|phone>
and they cost about 300 yen for 4 of them in 1/87 scale
<Glass|phone>
and now you know
<Greys>
;wa 1 inch * 87 to meters
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 1 inch×87 to meters: 2.21 meters
<Greys>
;wa 8 inch * 87 to meters
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 8 inches×87 to meters: 17.68 meters
<Greys>
so like 5 inch?
<Greys>
oh the butterfly valves?
<Glass|phone>
1 real inch is 3.5 scale millimeters I think
<Glass|phone>
that's how the national model railroad association standards define it
<Greys>
so what do teh butterfly valves do?
<Glass|phone>
which is the dumbest fucking way to define scale
<Greys>
meh
<Greys>
;wa 3.5mm to inch
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 3.5 mm (millimeters) to inches: 0.138 inches
<Glass|phone>
they are receptances for jumper cables
<Greys>
;wa 0.138:1
<kmath_>
Greys: 0.138:1: 1.->:->7.24638
<Greys>
it's really the scale's fault
<Glass|phone>
I mean 1:87 is a dumb scale ratio anyway but
<Greys>
;wa 1:87
<kmath_>
Greys: 1:87: 0.0115->:->1.
<Greys>
yep
<Greys>
why use a butterfly valve for jumpers?
<Greys>
there's so many better ways to seal a socket
<Glass|phone>
wait I always just assumed they were cable receptances
<Greys>
receptances....
<Greys>
recepticals
<Glass|phone>
I actually have no fucking idea what they are
<Greys>
I would assume they're an air intake, but that's a bad place to put an intake, that's a bad way to expose an intake, and that trane shouldn't need any intakes
<Glass|phone>
electric trains need air to cool control electrical equipment
<Greys>
and it should get all of it from ambient flow
<Glass|phone>
slightly different car, so different location of the things
<Greys>
do they have an onboard fuel burning engine for emergencies?
<Glass|phone>
the butterflyvalvish rod might be part of a locking mechanism or whatever
<Glass|phone>
that's what slopes are for
<Glass|phone>
generally no
<Glass|phone>
dual mode rolling stock is very rare for some reason
<Greys>
it's clear that the bar connects to a hinge bracket at the bottom, and the box on top contains the operator mechanism, which could be a servo system or a cable linkage
<Glass|phone>
although I think I remember reading about a backup engine for exactly that purpose, can't remember in what context
<Glass|phone>
so you mean it's hinged at the bottom and locked at the top? that's how you get water inside
<Greys>
it would strictly function as a receptical cover, but your plug would need to be slotted and very long; longer than the diameter of the hole
<Greys>
no it's braced at the bottom and operated at the top
<Glass|phone>
yeah that's what I thought
<Greys>
do cars like these consume water? that would actually be a reasonable way to do it
<Greys>
a port on top would be a cleaner solution for the operator, just drive the train under a thing, like up a hanging spigot, push go; where on front you would need to have someone approach the train, latch on a fire hose sort of connector, open the valves (it could be spring operated but I doubt it) and then when all is done remove the aparatus
<Greys>
what is it here that's significant, lots to look at and I'm not educated on the subject
<Glass|phone>
Greys: with water I mean that rainwater would get and stay inside if bottom hinged
<Glass|phone>
those are the cables for exactly that receptance
<Greys>
also with this apparently being a utility car not a passenger car, it would make more sense to have an onboard power generator so when it needs to draw a lot of power it's not going to impact the grid
<Glass|phone>
adabters to various multiple unit control systems
<Glass|phone>
these are mostly used to tow electric trains by using the towed train's own power
<Greys>
however, this image reveals that it's actually two panels hinged on a single shaft
<Greys>
the box probably houses springs to keep both sides closed independently, and there's probably multiple smaller sockets behind each side
<Greys>
the indicated flaps are where those jumpers would plug in
<Greys>
and those flaps are also present on the original image
<Glass|phone>
you mean the sockets under the car body? these always connect to their own equivalent on the other side
<Greys>
hmmm, the butterly shaped whateverthefuck seems to come in multiple styles, some are clearly a double flap thing, some are clearly a solid flap; and some are slotted
<Glass|phone>
jesus christ Greys you might be onto something
<Greys>
I wish that last one was higher rez so I could see into it
<Greys>
an alternate interpretation of the double flap design is that it's an exhaust check valve, so when some system pushes air out it goes, but when it's not pushing out it stays closed; probably to prevent rain water
<Greys>
the slotted ones btw appear fixed, and I would interpret teh similar housing style that the slotted ones are a retrofit
<Glass|phone>
my first idea was that it was just a red plate on the inside so that if opened it would be an end of train signal, but that would only need one flap, and I've seen one in person which had red discs that were separate pieces (I think, I can dig up a photo maybe)
<Glass|phone>
yeah, round plates on the upside down T shape near the bottom
<Glass|phone>
from my own experience I can say that these are only found on old JNR trains
<Greys>
the double flap ones tend to have little blocks on each flap and the solid ones have it on just one side; if those are magnets then they could be hold-opens, the double flaps magnet together and are springloaded to stay centered; the single flaps.... I don't know
<Greys>
would it make more than zero sense for these to cover a lamp?
<Glass|phone>
that was my second thought
<Greys>
was there some old lamp technology where it was better to have it running all the time and shutter it when you didn't want the light, like how old vacuum tubes could run for a long time, but hated warming up and cooling off?
<Greys>
so you'd shut down your vacuum tube computer and then the next time you turn it on half the tubes die
<Glass|phone>
now for something confusing, urban commuter trains don't have them
<Greys>
and what is that other kind of train that does have them? longer range commuter trains?
<SilverFox>
oh shit, this site I watch korean stuff on I can get japanese stuff on
<SilverFox>
Glass|phone, tell me the best channels to watch stuff on
<SilverFox>
I wanna see how crazy weird japan's tv shit is
<Greys>
fox japan
<Glass|phone>
Greys: suburban, rural, and non-revenue it seems
<SilverFox>
that just sounds like pure shit with at least some known level of respect
<SilverFox>
fox news everywhere-else doesn't have notion of respect in the language, so at least japan has that going for them
<Greys>
to me this suggests that the flap, whatever it does, is entirely in service of the individual train's systems; and urban commuter trains were deemed to not need this system the system would not be put under the load to need this feature
<Greys>
so if it is an air intake, either the urban train doesn't have the thing that needs this air (secondary engine), it's for cooling and the urban train won't heat up as much (I think this doesn't make sense), or if it is a socket, urban trains don't make use of that connection
<Glass|phone>
here's some limited express trains that have it
<Greys>
Glass|phone are you comparing it on trains from the same time period? maybe it's just an old standard
<Glass|phone>
about same period
<Greys>
mmkay
<Greys>
then I'm gonna stick with the theory that guy on the platform is standing weird
<Glass|phone>
the 143 which I was talking about in the beginning was derived from the 101 series I think, which is a commuter train that does not have this thing
<Greys>
I think it's for an onboard gas burning engine that does something non-critical which urban trains don't require; potentially related to the longer ride times, such as run air conditioning
<Greys>
gas/fuel/whatever
<Glass|phone>
all following commuter rolling stock seems to lack it too
<Greys>
how mad would the station people get if you just went up and tried to open the flap
<Glass|phone>
it really might just be a dirt cover for an extra set of lights or so
<Glass|phone>
police level mad
<Glass|phone>
also, good luck finding them in tokyo
<Greys>
ok, so find one of those fancy japanese timestop watches for when you want to bang lots of girls without them noticing
<Glass|phone>
I've seen about two trains that have this feature near me, and thosexmay not have been in regular service
<Greys>
just make sure you don't break the watch while it's active or you'll be stuck in time until you die
<Greys>
#thosexmay
<Greys>
is there a train museum which may have an old railway engineer on staff who could answer this? america has quite a lot of railway museums and they're basically run by old railwaymen
<Glass|phone>
I'm just googling it right now
<Greys>
if you look closely at the picture of the beige trains, there's the guy standing weird, but then at the other end of that train car, there's a kid standing weird; I think they're weirdstanding at eachother
<SilverFox>
Greys, so lets say I have a battery bank, and the one port is limited at 2A, if a device tries to pull more than that, it can't, right?
<SilverFox>
like in the case of using USB c here
<SilverFox>
just need to know if I have to buy new battery banks or not
<SilverFox>
the one I have is decent, it's rated for like, 11,000mAh, tested to be about 10,000+
<SilverFox>
so to not be able to use that with my switch would be saddening
<SilverFox>
also Greys, ready to get triggered? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01NAEK4BS?th=1 look at the first picture, and hover over the white and black options until you notice a difference
<Glass|phone>
Greys: apparently it's the air horn...
<SilverFox>
hint: look at the pointy bit with the pointy bit recepticles
<Glass|phone>
and "the type on the picture opens due to air pressure when the horn is blown" with the pic beimg a dead link
<SilverFox>
nice
<Greys>
that makes sense
<Glass|phone>
however, that makes perfect sense now
<Greys>
so the urban cars use a different kind of horn, probably quieter
<Glass|phone>
the two flaps are sprkng loaded with the springs in the top cover
<Glass|phone>
urban ones are still loud enough to scare the fuck out of drunk people at the platform edge
<Greys>
good
Scorp_Away is now known as Scorp
<Greys>
but if you made them 5db quieter, they'd still do that, but lose a significant range of audibility
<Glass|phone>
they might just range a hundred meters or so
<Glass|phone>
when a train pulls into a station, they will often warn you when they reach the platform edge
<Glass|phone>
but you can't hear it if you're waiting at the other end
<Greys>
now imagine if it was still really loud at the other end
<Glass|phone>
however, that is when they are not blowing the full horn and significantly quieter
<Glass|phone>
I've heard the full horn two days ago right in front of my face
<Greys>
do your ears still hurt?
<Glass|phone>
doesn't really hurt your eard much but that is a sound that stays with you for a few minutez
<Glass|phone>
*minutes
<SilverFox>
so nintendo switch doesn't ship with an internet browser
<SilverFox>
i am disappointed
<Greys>
when I was about 7 I was at an air show on a military base, and they had a zodiac style rescue craft in an airplane hanger that they were letting all the kids climb around
<SilverFox>
inb4 hijacks plane and 911 happens
<Greys>
it was one of those semirigid inflatable boats with a podium in the middle for somebody to steer
<Greys>
so of course I was climbing around the bow, maybe two feet in front of the podium
<Greys>
and some fucking kid fired the airhorn
<SilverFox>
lol get rekt
<Greys>
I'm just gonna guess this horn was 150~170dB
<Greys>
in normal operation everybody on the boat would be wearing double ear protection
<Greys>
well fuck them for not bringing their own camera
<SilverFox>
Greys, is that the tinnitis you hear?
<Greys>
there's a heirarchy of horn loudness based mainly off of how significant not hearing the horn would be; cars aren't super loud because they're not really significant in traffic safety most of the time. trains are pretty damn loud because a train can drive through a tank; boats can get crazy loud because they have to be heard from very far away
<Greys>
SilverFox, yes
<SilverFox>
interesting
<SilverFox>
your ear hairs were physically traumatized by that sound, and now live their lives hearing that sound every day of the week
<teabot>
Traumateazed.
<SilverFox>
traumateazed, what an interesting combination of words
<Greys>
tinnitis is normally caused by sound damage, either via prolonged exposure to LOUD NOISES, or momentary exposure to EXTREMELY FUCKING LOUD NOISES
<SilverFox>
yeah, it's like PTSD for your ears
<Greys>
listening to loud music on your headphones can do it in weeks to years; but one rescue patrol zodiac horn blast at borderline deadly range, you're fucked
<Greys>
they're not screws, they're miniature replica airhorns
<Glass|phone>
SilverFox: try making them yourself
<SilverFox>
ohh
<Greys>
not actually that hard
<SilverFox>
oh shit, Greys, how's that new job of yours going?
<Greys>
casting bronze doesn't require high temperature, lost wax process is pretty cheap, and these parts are for the most parts just stacks of cylinder and cone sections
<Greys>
starts tomorrow
<SilverFox>
nice
<SilverFox>
oh btw, on that amazon link I sent you, the part that plugs into the device looks *physically* different between the black and white options
<SilverFox>
yet on the other pictures there isn't the physical difference
<Glass|phone>
can you do it for under $4, in a <20m^2 apartment with no outside space for handling molten metal
<SilverFox>
of course you can
<SilverFox>
get fucking good m8
<Greys>
the ruler is neat, I doubt there will be a significant market for them
<SilverFox>
it's a niche product, so I agree
<Glass|phone>
and you only ever need one set per train as they are only found on end cars anyway
<Greys>
"sturdy anodized aluminum"
<Greys>
fuckin plebs ain't know shit about metalurgy
<Greys>
thing 1, aluminum is super easy to cut
<Greys>
you can shave aluminum with a box cutter
<SilverFox>
but isnt box cutter some sort of steel or something?
<Greys>
especially at edges where the razer can really bite
<Greys>
box cutters are less insanely sharp more sturdy xacto/hobby blades
<SilverFox>
and they have portions you can snap off with plyers right?
<Glass|phone>
Greys: I actually had that issue last week, art knife and aluminum ruler, two cuts and suddenly aluminum chips
<Greys>
if you're cutting at this with a proper hobby knife, especially a biased edge style for cutting against stuff; the aluminum will gladly be cut
<SilverFox>
why are you guys cutting the aluminum ruler?
<Greys>
"It’s also constructed out of sturdy anodized aluminum, so that it won’t be easily damaged by cutting"
<Greys>
you cut along it, and it's real easy for the knife to grab the aluminum, suddenly you're cutting a wee shaving off your fancyass ruler
<SilverFox>
ah
<SilverFox>
line the edges with iridium then
<Glass|phone>
SilverFox: just make it out of fucking steel
<Greys>
proper scales are made out of steel for two reasons, it doesn't like to be cut (aluminum is a so called free-machining material like wood and brass), it can be hardened pretty easily to make it even more cut resistant; and, best of all, the coefficient of friction between two pieces of steel sliding against eachother, it's fucking nothing
<Greys>
so the dry friction coefficient of steel on steel is 0.5~0.8 micro sub(s); I don't entirely know what this unit is
<Greys>
add a tiny amount of oil such as would be present to prevent rust; and it drops to 0.16
<Greys>
dry aluminum (doesn't need oil, doesn't rust), 1.05~1.35 rubbing on itself; aluminum against mild steel, 0.61
<SilverFox>
is high good or bad?
<Glass|phone>
bad
<SilverFox>
aight
<SilverFox>
"the Switch has a standard USB-C port, which makes it the most universal Nintendo power system since the Game Boy took AA batteries"
<Glass|phone>
lol
<Greys>
anodized aluminum is just aluminum with a thicker oxide layer, so the friction properties should not vary unless they do some chemistry on it to add other materials
<SilverFox>
well fuck
<Greys>
therefore, your steel knife, is going to have a lot of friction against your aluminum guide
<SilverFox>
the switch requires 39W to charge, 15v at 2.6A
<RandomJeb>
I have cut a lot of aluminium on accident with steel blades
<RandomJeb>
even with the blade drenched in oil
<RandomJeb>
it is the worst
<Greys>
one of the things we used to make at the shop I worked at was basically an alluminum stick, inch and a half wide, 8 inches long, third or so of an inch thick; and I could bend that stick with my bare hands
<SilverFox>
why is this 2m cable cheaper by 2$ than the 1m cable?
<Greys>
rollerskate bearings are much cheaper because the rollerskating, blading, boarding, etc market has massively subsidized their scale
<Greys>
so people are buying a lot more of the 6ft model, making it's economics of scale work out better, leading to them reducing the price, leading to people buying that one more
<Glass|phone>
Greys: btw, why would you need lost wax anyway, is it more precise than resin casting?
<Greys>
Glass|phone are those resin? they look like metal to me
<Glass|phone>
they seem metal
<Glass|phone>
I was asking why you'd not just use a silocone mold and resin, it's a simpler process
<Greys>
ah; because resin is expensive, silicone molds are generally good for about 50 uses, it takes longer to cast, etc
<Greys>
so 28oz of this resin is 30$, you have 5 minutes to get it into your mould, you really should own a vacuum evacuator with a built in vibe table to clear the air bubbles; especially for such small parts, and you can take it out after at best 30 minutes
<Greys>
;wa 28 fl oz to cubic cm
<kmath_>
Greys: Wolfram couldn't understand your gibberish
<Greys>
;wa 28 fl oz to cm3
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 28 fl oz (fluid ounces) to cubic centimeters: 828.1 cm^3 (cubic centimeters)
<Greys>
;wa 830cm3 of brass to kg
<kmath_>
Greys: Wolfram couldn't understand your gibberish
<Greys>
;wa density of brass
<teabot>
Densitea.
<kmath_>
Greys: brass (mineral)->density: (data not available)
<Greys>
.... pretty sure brass is an alloy
<Greys>
;wa 828.1cm3*8.73g/cm3 to kg
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 828.1 cm^3 (cubic centimeters)×8.73 g/cm^3 (grams per cubic centimeter) to kilograms: 7.229 kg (kilograms)
<Greys>
;wa 7.229kg / 0.0617lbs
<kmath_>
Greys: (7.229 kg (kilograms))/(0.0617 lb (pounds)): 258.3 kg/kg (kilograms per kilogram), 258.3, 25830%
<SilverFox>
Glass|phone, get a 3d printer so you can print the moulds, or the parts themself even
<Greys>
you can't 3D print materials that would make good moulds
<SilverFox>
you can 3d print with resin though
<Greys>
you could 3D print wax that would make good positives for casting
<Glass|phone>
SilverFox: yeah, scale model accuracy on a home 3d printer
<SilverFox>
the accuracy of resin printing is phenomenal
<Glass|phone>
Greys: shapeways actually offers wax printing for lost wax casting
<Greys>
and the cost of resin printers is astronomitron
<SilverFox>
yup
<SilverFox>
and so is the resin
<Greys>
;wa 7.229kg to lb
<kmath_>
Greys: convert 7.229 kg (kilograms) to pounds: 15.937 lb (pounds)15 pounds 15 ounces
<Greys>
the hard part here is finding the cheapest format of brass by weight
<Greys>
if I just called they could probably look it up in a spreadsheet
<Glass|phone>
so anyway, I just wanted to know what detail part to use so thst I know if I have to drill a hole for it, because drilling them later would suck
<Glass|phone>
I have my plan printed out on normal paper which is glued to a sheet of .3mm styrene
<Glass|phone>
not the best way but I can work with it, and it's cheap
<Greys>
btw styrene is just as good for lost wax; except that you generally lose the surface finish quality
<Glass|phone>
styrene as what
<teabot>
Stearene.
<Glass|phone>
also I don't have a pin vise or drills, so I open my holes by spinning the knife in it
<Glass|phone>
there's a hardware store in walking range
<Greys>
check out any hobbiest electronics shops, I think mine has a 7$ pinvice
<Glass|phone>
google maps doesn't have their opening hours but I guess they are closed at 1am
<Glass|phone>
electronics is another fun thing
<Glass|phone>
I think I want to put an arduino in that thing because even basic decoders are like ten times of an arduino
Scorp is now known as Scorp_Away
<Glass|phone>
ten times the cost
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<Greys>
decoder?
<Glass|phone>
a circuit board that takes a square wave signal and uses it to control the motor and various other functions on model trains
<Glass|phone>
you might know model trains where the motor is directly controlled by the current in the rails, but these have obvious shortcomings
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<Greys>
that sounds relatively simple to make
<Greys>
I assume the square wave is PWM'd?
<GlsFrg|phone>
it reverses polarity in long and short intervals to encode information
<GlsFrg|phone>
I think the usual way is to rectify and voltage drop it to power the arduino
<GlsFrg|phone>
and put it through an opocoupler to get the information
<Greys>
that certainly sounds like words
<GlsFrg|phone>
there is at least one library available to actually do the low level signal processing
<GlsFrg|phone>
so all I'd have to do is combine it with a simple motor control circuit to have a working decoder
<Greys>
consider packaging that as a ready to go product, and sell it
<GlsFrg|phone>
I think you can get unsoldered decoders
<Greys>
for less than it would cost for you to make an arduino decoder?
<GlsFrg|phone>
no
<GlsFrg|phone>
and they would be basic motor+headlight types
<Greys>
I'm not saying you turn this into a factory situation, but if you can build these for relatively cheap, and sell them at a profit on like etsy or maybe even the local hobby shop, maybe you could subsidize some tools
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<GlsFrg|phone>
I actually thought about selling 3d printed or resin cast things
<GlsFrg|phone>
That definitely sounds like something I could do
<Greys>
the key will be to capitalize on it fast; because as soon as you start selling them, every nerd will realize they could make that too, so get your profit, get out, put it on your resume, and have no shits to give as you leave
<GlsFrg|phone>
I wouldn't expect my first electronics project to psy me for the rest of my life anyway
<GlsFrg|phone>
I'm happy if I can walk into imon harajuku and surprise people with how much thought I put into my first model
<SilverFox>
I wonder how you could distinguish between real ads and fake ones for a nintendo switch
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<SilverFox>
they're sold out everywhere of course, so ive been looking on ebay, and there are some for a reasonable price, being within <40$ of retail, and Im curious if it's legit or just a fuckin rock
<GlsFrg|phone>
a fucking rock? rocks reproduce asexually
<SilverFox>
HAHAHAHA YOU'RE SO FUCKING ORIGINAL WOW
<SilverFox>
have you contemplated being a comedian?
<GlsFrg|phone>
yes
<SilverFox>
well
<SilverFox>
you'd be shit at it
<SilverFox>
dont do it
<SilverFox>
"cheap", is actually base-price + 100$ without shipping costs
<kmath_>
YouTube - Samurai Jack Season 5 Trailer | Samurai Jack | Adult Swim
<SilverFox>
;wa 280 GBP to CAD
<kmath_>
SilverFox: convert £280 (British pounds) to Canadian dollars: C$463.35 (Canadian dollars)
<SilverFox>
britain's getting cucked for 11$
<SilverFox>
;wa 280USD to CAD
<kmath_>
SilverFox: convert $280 (US dollars) to Canadian dollars: C$373.81 (Canadian dollars)
<SilverFox>
and we're getting cucked by a good 80$
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<Greys>
cucknadian doggars
<SilverFox>
;wa 327euros to CAD
<kmath_>
SilverFox: convert €327 (euros) to Canadian dollars: C$468.79 (Canadian dollars)
<Greys>
doggars are adult puppers
<SilverFox>
;wa 10000 pesos to CAD
<kmath_>
SilverFox: convert $10000 (Mexican pesos) to Canadian dollars: C$699.80 (Canadian dollars)
<SilverFox>
that's fucking disgusting
<SilverFox>
I feel bad for mexico
<Greys>
;wa 100 pesos to USD
<kmath_>
Greys: convert $100 (Mexican pesos) to US dollars: $5.24 (US dollars)
<Greys>
seems they're doing pretty well
<Hyratel>
Greys, ooh
<Hyratel>
Greys, I remember seeing the build process for that
<Greys>
an audio circuit like that shouldn't be passing enough current to heat up a lot, right?
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<GlsFrg|phone>
it's 4am, my neighbors just came home, somehow the sound of them unlocking their door gave me a nightmare about doors
<SilverFox>
you got traumatized by a fuckin door?
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<Hyratel>
Greys, no. the max load on a circuit like that is in the range of ... 200mA?
<Hyratel>
something like that
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<Hyratel>
if you were making it to drive speakers, you'd want some heat dissipation
<Hyratel>
like, have you ever seen "winged DIP"?
<Hyratel>
it's a design for like, DIP-16 where the center two pins on each side are instead a thermal tab and it has a heatsink mounted on top of it, cosoldered to those tabs